We spent the day storming around the temples of Vientianne - especially noteworthy were that luang whre we made a bird offering and wat sisaket, Patucxi (the vicotry monument and sign of laos) was impressive but unfortunately in the middle of a roundabout -before conceding defeat in the face of the pink eye and heading over to the hospital before a long lunch at new Asian favourite Joma Bakery (well on the way to getting a free coffee with the loyalty card). Hospital was not all that primitive (rather like any of the older PCT NHS ones with mixed use, age, sex wards if little hotter) but unfortunately we got separated from our shoes having had to change buildings several times which i think slightly thwarted the whole point of the excercise of hygiene.
After slight difficulties and a large phone bill we reunited with the others by the cultural museum and boarded the minibus to the station for the train to the other station; apparently this was the simplest option. Leg two of Vangvieng to Bangkok was Vientienne to nok khai and then over friendship bridge with a stunning view of the, at this junction, vast mekong to thailand and onto the sleeper to Bangkok. We thought it was wonderful - what plane has a dining cart, full beds and the world cup opening match for 16pounds? We did however, realise why the upper beds were so cheap - they never turn off the lights so sleeping is a little hindered which might turn out for the best since it was rather too easy to fall out.
Bangkok was massive; as evidenced by the hours approach to the central station through the city as the railside gradually transformed from squatter settlements to public services and finally to neatly manicured vegetation, and oppressively hot although not a riot in sight (somewhat disappointing given the worrying that certain mothers were putting in). with leg 3 of our journey booked it was time for market shopping. we rapidly accumulated far more clothing than our backpacks were prepared to accept at a fairly consistant 100baht apiece. unfortunately thai sizes meant that shorts, skirts and trousers were off the menu at chatuchak market (24ha of market space) although puppies and snakes were not if the pet section was anything to go by. a quick hello to bangkok residents and a swift viewing of the chaos of the electricals floor of an upmarket mall and we were back at the train station to board the bus south to Surat Thani, where after an hour of being bitten and complaining of the cramp from curling up on the corner of the sofa in the 'Lounge' section we changed for another to Krabi where we got a minibus to the port to get the first ferry of the day to Koh Phi Phi, which thankfully is pedestrianised.
Life on Phi Phi is, typically I fear, difficult. Wake, eat, doze, frolic, swim, eat, doze, dance, sleep. It is beautiful but haunted by the spectre of the 2005 Tsunami - although physical scars have largely disappeared (save for lesser known beaches covered in broken coral and occasionally walking on a pathway that morphs into the foundations of a destroyed former dwelling) the glistening new hospital, evacuation routes and notices in restaurants informing customers of their connection to the early warning system serve as a constant reminder. What's hideous is that the rebuild is obviously designed with next time in mind.
I have managed some activity. I've been both wreck diving and shark diving although i think the former turned out to be more dangerous and have been to cult status Maya Bay in the national marine park otherwise known as 'The Beach.' It was a little ironic that the film centered on a community attempting to avoid the excesses and multitudes of modern asian travel given the blatent exploitation of the site now. The wreck of King Edward was more interesting 40m down that it ever could have been in life. 15years ago this car ferry sank under slightly suspicious circumstances; rumours of the thai mafia abound - for one thing there are substancial questions as to why a car ferry was ever making daily trips to a pedestrainised island. But it is now home to over 300 species of coral, 4 'nemos', turtles etc. and a giant puffa fish - absolutely deadly and larger than the leopard sharks we saw on the next dive all the while fighting against quite a formidable current. favourite sight had to be the stingray getting its teeth cleaned - wuite happily bearing the gnashers for a grubber fish to have a tasty meal.
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